In June the heatwave in Britain was intense. For most of July it rained, sometimes heavily – the humidity scrambled my brain. It was as if I struggled each day through hot, suffocating treacle.
A Danish friend invited us for a few days in August to Bornholm, an island off Copenhagen where her mother used to live. A cousin rents out a rustic farmhouse and we were soon on our way.
The farmhouse is surrounded by fields. A home for leaping hares. Supper was smoked salmon, herring and mackerel with potatoes in a Danish mayonnaise. There are smokehouses in each little town and the fish is fresh and delicious. Alongside potatoes and salad, I could live on this all summer together with the bread and sweet pastries we enjoyed at breakfast. Plain yoghourt, juice, jam from all kinds of berries – and lots of coffee. All taken with loads of fresh sea air. It was a real treat to be transported from the world of populism, politics and the problems that are engulfing us and our planet. It’s so restorative to have a breathing space …
The island’s location is strategic, 105 miles south east of Copenhagen and 22 miles south east of Sweden. It has been a Viking stronghold, then owned by Sweden and for a while Lübeck in the 16th century. During WW2 the Russians took it from the invading Nazis. Today it is Danish. A ruined fortress, Hammershus, once the largest medieval fortress in northern Europe, still towers above the cliffs, confirming the brutal struggles it has witnessed.
This picture reminds me of Leonora Christina Countess Ulfeldt (1621-1698), who was one of the many children of King Christian IV of Denmark. She was imprisoned here for many years, often in solitary confinement (except for rats and fleas) but during this time she wrote a book, ‘Jammers Minde’ – translated as ‘Memory of Lament’. It was only published in 1869 and is now regarded as a classic of 17th century Danish literature.
Today Bornholm is a haven from the rough and tumble of the commercial world. There is artisan glass blowing, ceramics, painting, screen printing and schnapps making – all of high quality – to be found in the picturesque small coastal towns.
There are sandy beaches, one of which – Dueodde – has the finest, silkiest white sand in Europe. Our friends went swimming every morning – I should have but the Baltic felt super cold as I paddled along the shoreline. Given longer, maybe I could have become a mermaid …
… fortified by a glass of the local Snaps.
‘Round’ churches abound on Bornholm. Why round? Because they doubled as fortresses against the many invaders.
Bornholm uses a lot of renewable energy – old and new windmills and turbines. It’s a favourite place for the Danes to come on holiday but it retains a simple charm – a world away from the normal tourist tat. I hope it stays that way.
I came out with some polished stones – not made of granite – but which held the light of the sun within them. I’m sleeping well here with only a light duvet that is enough to keep me warm. I need one of these for heatwaves at home!
Next morning …
Dog Flossie was delighted to go for a walk in the woods, carrying around a big stick as she explored deep, dark places …
Exploring the seaside towns, we found lots on offer besides cosy cafés. Ceramics and wood carving at Svaneke, mirror art and silk screening at Gudhjem, with hand knitted jumpers, hats and gloves. A cornucopia of temptations … some of the artists live here all the time, others spend the winter months in Copenhagen.
I would have liked to look at more of this artist’s work but could only peer into her workshop as she was nowhere to be seen. Somewhere to go back to …
We ducked down a narrow alley way where all our dreams came true – retail dreams, that is!
I hope we come back here one day. Meanwhile, our chosen purchase comes home – it needs to be a wall hanging to really appreciate it!
A quick pit stop at the smokehouse on the way to the (tiny) airport.
We’ve only been here a few days but Bornholm has connected with my Scandinavian genes. The small island plane is waiting to take us back to Copenhagen. Then we are back in the flow to London.
