Keyhaven, Hurst Castle, Southampton and Buckler’s Hard

John promised he would finish his 24/7 report by the end of May, so I kept my counsel and was as quiet as a mouse about having a few days away.  We finally pointed the nose of our old- but- still- stylish- car in the direction of the New Forest at the beginning of July – only for five days –  but just that change of scene began to put a spring into the constant daily trudge and drudge …  further burdened by a disabling depression, following the madness of Brexit.  How could I, a European, be represented by blinking, blinkered Brexit? Would I have to leave my country of birth?  The EU certainly needs radical reform but we need to be a partner in all of that – not an isolated small island on the fringes.  Heavy feet combined with a heavy heart were not a great combination.

Our first port of call, although picturesque, with a river running through the garden, somehow didn’t appeal.  Too twee, too expensive for what it was, although the dinner was good.  We just felt out of place. Next morning, we were woken by a huge, red sewage lorry growling under our window.  Long, blue sinuous pipes slithered through the dining room, into the garden beyond. We made a hasty exit. I fell silent in the car on our way to the coast, concentrating on the map  – no sat-nav, so at least we won’t drive gaily into the sea…!

Escape from the city ...

Escape from the city …

Keyhaven is a place more full of boats than people.  It looks out over the Needles at the Isle of Wight. Otherwise, it’s marshland which attracts colonies of birds and then there’s Hurst Castle,  which sits out at sea – a formidable and unwelcoming fortress –  as it was in times past and latterly, during WW2. You can walk there from the shore (about 30 minutes) on top of a vast sand spit  –  which we did.

Keyhaven - boats 1

Keyhaven – boats 1

Keyhaven - the lagoon

Keyhaven – the lagoon

 Keyhaven - Sailing boats 3

Keyhaven – Sailing boats 3

We met sailors, anglers, dog walkers and a lovely old countryman,  John Churchill, dressed in capable browns and greens, who told us about the habits of grayling fish, which favour the shallows.  His son was by the shore, fishing for their supper.  They had invested in a motor home, bought on the proceeds of breeding a special type of dog.  Looking at John Churchill, he could have come from the 18th or 19th century  –  immersed in country ways. It reminded me that my father used to read a book size magazine regularly, called ‘The Countryman’.

My change of scene was finally off to a great start  and I could feel myself  escaping from ‘grimmity’.

On the shoreline - Keyhaven - 1

On the shoreline – Keyhaven – 1

On the shoreline, Keyhave - 2

On the shoreline, Keyhaven – 2

Goats and a scarecrow - Keyhaven

Goats and a scarecrow – Keyhaven

Good to be aware of the very different lives people lead.  English summer weather – bright, warm but with grey clouds lurking somewhere out there and a brisk wind up on the sand spit.

The sandspit - Keyhaven

The sand spit – Keyhaven

Angler with The Needles on the horizon

Angler with The Needles on the horizon

Half way there!

Half way there!

Keyhaven - sea cabbage

Keyhaven – sea cabbage

I’m amazed this place exists here.  When I elected to go to the New Forest I just thought of wild ponies and piglets, hoovering up beech mast.  Lovely, but there’s so much more …

Approaching the fortress - photo by john Elkington

Approaching the fortress – photo by John Elkington

Hurst castle - entrance

Hurst Castle – entrance

Old bricks used as breakwater - Hurst castle

Old bricks used as breakwater – Hurst Castle

I was fascinated by the colours and patterns rust makes, when continually washed by sea water.  The ‘lonely heart’ photo is particularly atmospheric!

A wall of rust - Hurst castle

A wall of rust – Hurst Castle

A neglected, rusty heart ...

A neglected, rusty, lonely heart …

The fort is well worth a visit.  Lots of memories of how it was used in WW2, wonderful, panoramic views of sea and land, and volunteers repainting relics of war.  See John’s blog.

Inside the fort.

Inside the fortress - John with large guns ...

Inside the fortress – John with large guns …

Roofscape

Roofscape

Kitchen Range

Kitchen Range

Cup of tea?

How about a cup of tea?

There’s a lot of rust about …

Shabby-chic?!

Double basins – shabby chic!

Vintage ... and

vintage … and

... very retro!

… very retro!

The fort is slowly being renovated with relics of the past on view and two rooms dedicated to lighthouses around Britain.

Amateur dramatics during WW2 ...

Amateur dramatics during WW2 …

Lighthouse exhibition at Hurst Castle - I never knew this fact!

Lighthouse exhibition at Hurst Castle – I never knew this fact!

It was beginning to spot with rain, so we decided to take the small ferry – ten of us squashed up for a ten minute ride – back to the shore.   It had a canvas roof but was otherwise open to the elements – giving me a rush of elemental energy as the wind buffeted us across the water.

We clambered out onto a small jetty and made our way to the “Gun Inn’ for a welcome lunch.

Time to catch the ferry ...

Time to catch the ferry …

The 'Gun Inn', Keyhaven, offers a welcome lunch ...

The ‘Gun Inn’, Keyhaven, offers a welcome lunch …

Next day we found ourselves in a car park, near the Hythe ferry, which we were taking to Southampton to see friends. John spent an hour in the car on a conference call, while I moseyed around the local Waitrose, picking up a razor (which he had forgotten to bring with him) and also a free ‘Times’. No FTs on offer in Hythe.  Two a day are delivered to Lymington  –  and later on we tracked one down, much to John’s satisfaction!

An old fashioned wooden train trundles the length of a very long pier far out into the Solent, where a quaint passenger ferry (1950s style) awaits to take you over the water.  Southampton docks are still industrial and impressive with vast ocean liners and cargo ships.

Southampton docks - the Queen Elizabeth

Southampton docks – the Queen Elizabeth

Cargo ship, Benjamin Franklin, leaving Southampton docks ...

Cargo ship, Benjamin Franklin, leaving Southampton docks …

... on its long voyage ...

… on its long outward voyage …

I hadn’t been to Southampton before and it was lucky that we ended up in the old part, which was to some extent saved from bombs during WW2.

Arrival in Southampton

Arrival in Southampton

Southampton Playhouse and the mystery of the missing camera ...

Southampton Playhouse and the mystery of the missing camera …

See John’s blog for this story – it’s his 9 life camera!

The Titanic sailed from here on its maiden voyage to New York. It sank on the 15th April 1912.

'The Titanic' pub, Southampton

‘The Titanic’ pub, Southampton

Southampton - walking the old walls ...

Southampton – walking the old walls …

Southampton - medieval merchant's house built in 1290

Southampton – medieval merchant’s house built in 1290

The Tudor House has a great museum and a charming garden at the back, built into the city walls. Worth a visit.

Southampton - Tudor house with museum and gardens

Southampton – Tudor house with museum and gardens

A lovely, quiet square by the city walls ...

A lovely, quiet square by the city walls …

Southampton - part of the city walls

Southampton – part of the city walls

There’s a good place to eat and stay here, called ‘The Pig’.

We had lunch at ‘The Olive Tree’ (Italian).  Our friends have a motor home and had travelled from Spain to Greece, so had interesting tales to tell.

Then it was back on the ferry.  Next stop, Buckler’s Hard via a welcome Waterstones bookshop we found in Lymington. We finally drove through parts of the New Forest.

A wild pony in the New Forest

A wild pony in the New Forest

Entrance to the Master Builder's House Hotel, Buckler's Hard

Entrance to the Master Builder’s House Hotel, Buckler’s Hard

This is in an idyllic spot by the river, where Nelson had many of his boats built.  Besides the hotel, there is a museum and many riverside walks.  We did the one to Beaulieu by the river – twice. This is a wonderful place for a weekend visit  –  even better if you can go mid-week.

Buckler's Hard - looking down towards the river

Buckler’s Hard – looking down towards the river

Buckler's Hard - clouds and boats ...

Buckler’s Hard – clouds and boats …

An idyllic spot by the riverside

A very English spot by the riverside – film set for an Agatha Christie, I thought…  or just a memorable country house weekend.

Buckler's Hard - time for an aperitif ... a nice place to read

Buckler’s Hard – time for an aperitif … and a nice place to read before dinner

Buckler's Hard - a river monster

Buckler’s Hard – a river monster?

Quinces at Beaulieu

Quinces at Beaulieu

Another monster keeping a beady eye on our sandwiches.

Beaulieu blackbird

Beaulieu blackbird

The ice cream at Buckler’s Hard was so delicious.  The sunset was very atmospheric. I slept well.

Sunset at Buckler's Hard = goodnight!

Sunset at Buckler’s Hard = goodnight!

Next morning we turned the car’s nose toward home via Fordingbridge, where we have a friend who has made some stunning films about China.  His name is Phil Agland.   We were invited for lunch with his family and then for a walk by the river. I wish I’d taken a picture of the pretty, lumbering white cows, which followed us closely, slobbering rather alarmingly  –  but I got stung by nettles instead!

John spotted huge trout basking in the shallows.

And then it was back to the mad motorway, the boy racers, the pointless, idiotic speeding, followed by the relief to be home once more with good memories and some fresh air in my veins.

An appealing poster at Fordingbridge - John said his grandmother was a Canary Girl!

An appealing poster at Fordingbridge – John said his grandmother was a Canary Girl!

END

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