Another foray into France via the tunnel. Christine had been singing the praises of ‘lovely’ Dieppe for months. The last time I’d been there was as a schoolgirl of seventeen, taking the boat train from Victoria via Newhaven/Dieppe and then onwards to Strasbourg. In my mind, Dieppe remained gloomy with heavy seas and bleak buildings hunching together around the harbour, damp, salty and sodden under a flat slate grey sky. I just remember feeling anxious of the unknown – and this feeling is shot through with the smell of the French lavatories on the train – harsh, hitting the back of the throat with a mix of dark urine and spent cigarette smoke, the flush onto the tracks sounding like an old man hawking spittle – raw and rasping. Why would I return to Dieppe?
Who knows? Yet I found myself on Barnes station on the 28th June with my small case, packed and ready to go.
Next stop – Strawberry Hill – to meet up with Christine and Mickey. And then the three of us were speeding along once again to the tunnel and beyond. I had chosen the hotel from the Internet. Our rooms should have balconies with a view of the sea. The pictures on the Internet didn’t tally with my memory of Dieppe. Just as well! But all the same, my hopes were not set high.
It’s a longer drive than to Wimereux on the French side (see my blog Côte d’Opale). Christine said that the alternative would have been to come by ferry – Newhaven/Dieppe – the times are usually inconvenient due to the tides and shallow harbours both ends but you do arrive almost at the door of your hotel. The happy surprise was that Hotel de la Plage lived up to expectations, as did the sea views. The only way I could jog my memory of old was when I saw the remains of the railway that used to run from the harbour, where the boat train picked up the passengers for onward destinations! No longer. I was cautiously optimistic …
The day was bright, flags were flying in the breeze and the cafés, companionably clustered around the port, welcomed crews from the hubbub of boats in the harbour. Dieppe was abuzz and yet two minutes around the corner on the seafront our hotel was gracious and tranquil. And the whole promenade was a riot of hollyhocks which complemented the long stretch of calm blue sea. All of it gloriously unexpected!
‘Flower Power’ parking – Dieppe
A riot of hollyhocks and a castle – Dieppe
The hotel was perfectly placed both for the sea and for exploring the pedestrianised centre of the town behind, reached by following small ‘ruelles’ – alley ways. My room was large, airy and comfortable and I had a bath as well as a shower – I’m happy with either but I was feeling stiff after the long drive and looking forward to a soak later on. There’s something very pleasurable and liberating about having a large hotel room all to oneself.
I unpacked and then went and stood out on the balcony. The sea air was mild and balmy. My eyes appreciated the wide view of blue sky, white clouds and the darker blue sparkling sea. Two yachts with white sails towards the horizon and two seagulls, swooping and mewing, above my head. And the stress of life in general being gently washed away. Then Christine and Mickey came out onto their balcony next door.
Mickey flagged up interest in tea and soon we were off to find the Café des Tribunaux, at one time a ‘hangout’ for some of the Impressionists- Pissarro and Renoir among them – and English painters of that time like Sickert – also the exiled Oscar Wilde. It did not disappoint.
Madame, entrez s’il vous plaît … irresistible …
Don’t take any notice of the ghost in the machine – just do what it says and thank the Minute Maid …
We retraced our footsteps back to the hotel. The Restaurant du Port was recommended to us for dinner. Grilled fresh fish and salad followed by a crême caramel and a comfortable bed just ahead.
I had a dreamless sleep and woke early.
Walking the dog – balcony shot, early morning
Round and about Dieppe are some fabulous gardens. After breakfast Mickey decided to repair to Café des Tribunaux with his notebook. He’s busy writing a play. I went upstairs to get ready for a drive to ‘Le Parc des Moutiers’ – an Arts and Crafts house and garden, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and Gertrude Jekyll. It’s just along the coast towards Varengeville. A lot of what follows is about gardens – this is just a warning to non-garden lovers!
Before leaving, I went to close the french windows onto the balcony and just had to take a photograph of this ‘green man’, making his picturesque way along the seafront, satchel over his shoulder, obviously with a destination in mind.
The mysterious green man on the seafront …
It didn’t take us long to find the house whose gardens sweep downhill to the sea. The trees are majestic. We came upon an artist, who had set up his easel in a secret walled garden. The house can only be visited by special appointment. it was designed by Lutyens before he became famous. He and Gertrude must have had fun here.
Though I say it myself, I find this picture enchanting. It is a pity I have tried and failed to grow astilbe of any colour. I was just reflecting on these gorgeous plants in their romantic setting and wondering why they wouldn’t do the same for me, when suddenly we walked around a corner and I was confronted by the unexpected.
How did he get here, my mysterious green man sitting on a garden seat? He may have been writing but I think he was drawing. I was quick enough to take a snap of him but too shy to approach and see what he was up to. We continued our walk around the gardens and on the way back towards the house – green vistas spread out before us – there he was again. A Poirot mystery for sure … ! I hoped we wouldn’t come upon him dead in the secret walled garden – Christine said I was being melodramatic – well, it turned out we could have just as easily been the victims, as somehow we got locked in the ‘toilettes’ on our way out. Nothing more sinister than a rusty key which needed a joggle.
On the trail of the “Panama Hat Mystery”, featuring Monsieur Green …
I thought maybe we could find somebody to let us have a look at the house on the way out but there was nobody in sight … except for
It was time to pick up Mickey and find some lunch. In this case, Mme. Poirot wasn’t able to solve the mystery and we left the green man to the charms of Gertrude Jekyll. He certainly fitted perfectly into her design and enhanced it – for me, anyway!
Yews – guardians to yet another secret walled garden …
Mickey was in good form and pleased to see us and we were soon driving up to the flower gardens of ‘Clos du Coudray’. No inviting hostelries anywhere along the route so we had to make do with a cold drink and home made banana cake offered by the girl at reception. But that was enough to appreciate the flowers here. Mickey sits in the back of the car and has a stash of chunky kitkats and mint imperials to stave off hunger pangs.
Rah! I’d better move to France if I want to grow perfect astilbe!
Getting slightly obsessed here!
who could not be enchanted by this red queen
After that riot of colour we were mentally sated but ravenous hunger propelled us back to Dieppe and the delight of choosing among many small and enticing restaurants along the harbour front. In the end ‘The New Haven’ won out. The waiters looked wonderful in their long white aprons and dinner was excellent – and très bon marché – I’d come back to Dieppe just to eat here!
We had been told that we must visit ‘Agapanthe’ — a garden created by the ‘architecte-paysagiste’ Alexandre Thomas. He is an elegant magician. Of all the gardens we saw, this is really special. It’s at Grigneuseville – make sure you check out the opening times before you go though.
There are two houses and two gardens, separated by a small road. The second house was bought later and the gardens extended around both houses. The whole is exquisite.
In contemplation at the old well ….
Spot the large buzzing insect …
At this point a rest was required. We left Mickey in a comfortable sunny spot while we kept our ears open for the tinkling of teacups.
Enjoying a quiet respite – John Singer Sargent style!
We listened in vain. No dormouse in a teapot to be found but Mickey had meanwhile found himself an even more tranquil spot, well off the beaten track. It took us ages to find him again!
The next photo is bad but I had to put it in, despite the poor little caged birds, just to show the quality of the light coming through the doorway.
I could ‘witter on’ about ‘a day to remember’ but what we needed now most of all was a cold drink, followed closely by dinner.
LAST DAY
We hadn’t got to the castle yet, which sits on top of the cliffs at the end of the beach. Quite a climb! First of all we explored the town a little more. Christine and I found a shop by the harbour selling a French line of clothing called ‘Mat de Misaine’. We were tempted and not disappointed with our purchases! The colour of mine is that special French ‘blue’.
There are lots of grand villas along the seafront. Dieppe suffered badly in WW2, so these are interspersed with modern buildings, such as our hotel. They do fit together quite well but the old villas are obviously much more picturesque. The Grand Hotel has now been made into apartments.
Meanwhile Mickey,left to his own devices, seemed to have made the acquaintance of a seafaring chap – maybe slightly unsuitable but we’ll stand him a drink all the same …
Mickey meets up with a young sea-dog and contemplates life on the ocean wave!
We keep passing this unsettling sculpture. I wonder what it signifies …
Makes it difficult to get a divorce!
The castle – third photo in behind the hollyhocks – is worth the visit. Rooms full of paintings and objets d’art. It is well maintained and they do have special exhibitions. The dry moat is full of wild flowers and there’s a king size ‘bellevue’ over Dieppe.
Mickey outside the castle walls …
Children are swimming in the sea today and also the olympic size outdoor pool. It’s reviving to walk along the sea front watching the boats and breathing in the sea air. Every other year (the even ones), there’s a kite festival. It must be an amazing sight. There’s also a ‘herring’ festival each year, following the weekend after the 11th November.
Packing up time and ready to go. We’ve only been here four days but it seems much longer because we’ve done so much. I’ll have to come back and just sit on the balcony and gaze out to sea! You could even come without a car as a foot passenger on the ferry with a five minute walk to the hotel. I think I am a flâneur at heart!
Annual herring festival – Dieppe. Illustration Brigitte POPE. Magasin VAGUE – rue de la Rade, Dieppe76200
On the way back to the tunnel, we stopped off at a small seaside resort called Le Crotoy. Colette used to spend some summers here with her daughter and near her house we found a perfect little place by the sea to sit outside and have ‘moules frites’ with fresh lemons. Utterly delicious. And then it was time to head for home.
On the road again … to Le Crotoy
Poppies shot at speed, Le Crotoy
And so I was proved wrong re my memories of Dieppe – it was a long time ago! It’s an easy place to get to and I recommend it as somewhere uplifting to recharge your batteries. I shall go back.
FIN